SEMI-BESPOKE
In an effort to make properly constructed tailoring accessible to more, we offer a semi-bespoke program, that comes in at a fraction of the price of full bespoke. We know that the jump to commissioning a bespoke garment is a large one for most, so developing an offering that could act as a first step into the world of custom clothes was very important for us.
Usually, semi-bespoke garments are made in factories, usually overseas, from standardized pattern blocks that have been deemed to be the closest to the clients measurements. The pattern blocks are then edited and manipulated for the wearer, then the suit is sewn up entirely and shipped to the sales associate, where they schedule a fitting with the client. The client then tries on the fitted garment, and hopes that there was no break in communication between the sales associate and the factory producing the clothes.
There is often a lot of room for error and a lack of transparency in this method of manufacturing. We set out to craft an offering that is close to the quality and craftsmanship of fully bespoke garment as possible, without straying too far away from the pricing of most made-to-measure offerings. These garments are by default cut in the same house style as described on the offerings page, but we still retain the capability to make substantial edits in the same way we can with our full bespoke orders. A list describing the features of our semi-bespoke garments can be found below, where you can catch the similarities and differences between our two services.
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A full floating canvas construction, using premade canvas chest pieces that are edited, adjusted and in some cases, stripped down on individual commission basis.
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Machine padded lapels, roll line, with hand attached collars.
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Handmade buttonholes offered upon request.
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All construction done entirely under a single studio roof right here in Toronto, Canada. No outsourcing or subcontracting to other makers at all.
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An individually drafted paper pattern made from referencing an existing block extensively modified and adapted.
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Measuring and fittings carried out entirely by Franklin, with drafting and cutting carried out by another trained cutter with 40+ years of experience.
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Access to all of our fabric ranges, including Harrison's, Standeven, and VBC.
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A minimum of two fittings, with final delivery averaging around 8 weeks from commission.
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The opportunity for special design features and details.
SEMI-BESPOKE PROCESS
Stage 1
The process begins with an initial meeting. Whether this is at your home, our studio, your office, or even in a café or restaurant is entirely left up to you. Wherever the meeting takes place, we have a chat that will generally cover your history, current wardrobe, career, social life, future aspirations and if the commission is being made with any special occasion in mind.
Stage 2
After getting a sense of who you are and what your life looks like, we will take a look at the library of fabric books and whittle down the potential choices together until we settle on the perfect swatch for your specific garment. We will make recommendations on styling and design features informed by your physical build, complexion, and lifestyle, paired with our knowledge and experience in tailored garment design and styling.
We finally break out the tape measures and begin taking your measurements, considering your individual build, stance, posture and all the small intricacies that are entirely individual to you.
Stage 3
The next stage comes about three weeks after the initial consultation, where we will meet again and you will be presented with the first phase of your garment. Pockets are cut and installed and sleeves are basted on. The suit is loosely pieced together with canvases and internals exposed. Proportions and fit are analyzed.
